A little history
The temple is generally said to have been founded in the early nineteenth century by Amar Singh Thapa, a Gorkhali commander of the period when Palpa became part of the unified Nepali state, and it carries his name. Like many old temples in Nepal, it has seen repairs and renovation over the years, but it remains an active place of worship rather than a museum.
What to look at
Step back first to take in the stacked roofs, the classic shape of a Nepali pagoda temple. Then move closer and look at the carved wooden struts that support the roofs. They show deities and other figures, and some of the carvings may surprise you. A small pair of binoculars or a zoom lens helps with the higher details.
Take time with the courtyard too: the smaller shrines, the bells, the offerings left by worshippers. Visiting in the morning, when people come to pray, gives a better sense of the temple's place in daily life than a quiet afternoon.
Visiting respectfully
Remove your shoes where you see others doing so, and walk around shrines clockwise. Leather items are sometimes unwelcome inside Hindu temple areas, so leave a leather belt or bag behind if you can. Some inner areas may be open to Hindus only; if you are unsure, wait outside or ask.
Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and do not touch offerings or ritual objects. Ask before photographing people at prayer. Our guide to visiting temples in Nepal covers etiquette in more detail.
Fitting it into your day
Amar Narayan is within walking distance of the central square, and it sits naturally on the old bazaar walk. Ask for directions in town, as the lanes are not well signed. Allow at least half an hour so you are not rushing. If you are staying at Bulbul, the hosts can suggest how to combine it with other stops in town.
