Before you start
Tansen is built on a slope, and the old lanes are steep, stepped and paved with stone and brick. Cars cannot reach many of the oldest streets, though motorbikes can, so keep to the side and listen for horns. Shoes with good grip matter more here than in most Nepali towns.
Mid-morning is a good time to begin, once shops are open but before the midday heat. Some shops close or open late on Saturdays, the weekly holiday. Carry water and small notes for tea and snacks.
A suggested loop
Start at the central square, where the great gate of the palace, Baggi Dhoka, faces the small pavilion of Sitalpati. From here, wander into the lanes lined with older houses, and look for Bhagwati Temple, one of the town's important temples to the goddess, close to the centre.
Continue on to Amar Narayan Temple at the edge of the old town, a tiered pagoda that deserves its own unhurried stop. The open ground known as Tundikhel is another landmark worth finding. Directions are best asked rather than read from a map, as the lanes twist and many have no signs. Shopkeepers are usually happy to point the way.
What to notice along the way
Look up. Many of the older houses have carved wooden windows and brick facades that reflect the Newar merchant families who settled in Tansen and shaped its trade. Our guide to Newar heritage in Tansen explains more.
Look into the shops too. Tansen's bazaar is where you will find Palpali Dhaka cloth and brass and copper ware, alongside everyday hardware, sweets and tea stalls. Ask before photographing people in doorways or at work, and step aside for anyone carrying loads up the steps.
There is no need to finish the loop. When your legs have had enough, settle into a tea stall, or head back to Bulbul for a quieter garden afternoon.