How chiya is made
Rather than being brewed in a pot, chiya is usually cooked in a pan. Water, milk, loose black tea and sugar go in together and simmer until the colour turns a deep caramel brown. Some cooks add crushed ginger, cardamom, cloves or a pinch of black pepper, which turns it into masala chiya.
It is normally served sweet. Because the sugar goes in while it cooks, ask before it is poured if you prefer less. Chini kam means less sugar, and is a handy phrase to learn.
Other teas you may be offered
Kalo chiya is black tea without milk, usually sweetened. Lemon tea, sometimes with honey, is common in places that see travellers. In the high mountains you may also come across butter tea, a salty Tibetan-style drink.
Nepal grows its own tea, mostly in the eastern hills around Ilam, and you will often see packets of Nepali loose-leaf tea for sale in towns. They make a light gift to carry home.
Where and when to drink it
Chiya is drunk first thing in the morning, again through the day and whenever a visitor arrives. Small tea shops in bazaars, including the old streets of Tansen, are good places to sit for ten minutes and watch the town go by. Tea often comes in a small glass, so hold it near the rim if it is hot.
Being offered tea in someone's home is a gesture of welcome, and accepting a cup, even a small one, is usually appreciated. If you really do not want it, decline gently with a smile and a thank you. A few words from our Nepali phrases guide go a long way here.
Tea at Bulbul
At Bulbul, a cup of tea in the garden or under the pavilion is a simple way to start the day or settle in after arriving. Ask the hosts how they like to make their chiya, and say if you would prefer it with less sugar or without milk.