Where to look from
The higher the ridge, the better your chances. Shreenagar Hill above the bazaar is the classic spot, and other hilltops around Tansen, such as the one at Bhairabsthan, also open up to the north on a good day.
Set your expectations. The big peaks lie far to the north, beyond many ranges of green hills, so they appear as a white line low on the horizon rather than towering overhead as they do from Pokhara. Seen at dawn, with layer after layer of hills between you and the snow, that distance is part of the beauty.
When the view is clearest
After the monsoon rains wash the dust from the air, October and November usually bring the clearest skies. Winter can also be very good, with sharp mornings and mist lying in the valleys below. By spring, haze builds steadily, and from June to September the mountains are mostly hidden by monsoon cloud.
Time of day matters as much as season. The first hour or two after sunrise is usually best, and cloud often gathers around the peaks by late morning.
Tips for a good morning
Check the sky before you set out; if the horizon is hazy at your door, it will rarely be clearer from the hilltop. Take a warm layer for dawn, a flask of tea and, if you have them, binoculars or a zoom lens. Then be patient: a gap in the cloud can open and close in minutes.
At Bulbul, the garden looks out towards distant hills, and evenings bring their own show at sunset. Our guide to photography in Palpa has more on light and timing.