What you will find at the top
The upper slopes are covered in pine forest, with paths winding between the trees and open spots along the ridge where the view opens out. It is a favourite with local families and students, so expect company at weekends and on Saturdays, Nepal's weekly holiday. On weekday mornings it is usually much quieter.
There is not a great deal to do up here, and that is the point. Bring a snack, find a place in the shade and let the morning go slowly.
Walking up
Paths climb from the upper edge of the bazaar. The way is steep in places and partly stepped, so allow an hour or more at an easy pace, depending on where you start and how often you stop. A road also reaches towards the top, and some visitors ride up and walk down, or the other way round.
Trails change and signs are not always clear, so ask a shopkeeper or your hosts for the current starting point. Coming down is harder on the knees than going up, especially on loose pine needles, so take it slowly.
When to go and what to bring
Go early. Views are clearest in the first hours after sunrise, particularly in autumn and on crisp winter mornings, and clouds often build by late morning. In the monsoon the paths turn slippery and you may meet leeches in the forest, so long trousers and closed shoes help.
Carry water, a light warm layer for the top and a bag for your rubbish. Avoid starting a walk close to dusk, as the forest paths are hard to follow in fading light. If you are staying at Bulbul, an early climb pairs well with a slow afternoon in the garden hammocks. For more on reading the sky before you set off, see Himalayan views from Tansen.