Why Ridi is sacred
The Kali Gandaki is one of Nepal's holy rivers, and Ridi sits where a smaller stream, the Ridi Khola, joins it. The town's best-known temple is dedicated to Vishnu as Rishikesh, and a widely told story says the image appears to change age over the course of the day, from child to youth to old man.
The Kali Gandaki is also the source of shaligram, the black fossil stones revered as a form of Vishnu, which you may see for sale or at shrines. Many families bring their dead to the riverbank here for cremation and last rites. If you come across a funeral, keep your distance and put your camera away.
Maghe Sankranti at Ridi
Ridi is at its busiest around Maghe Sankranti in mid-January, when pilgrims bathe in the river and a large fair fills the town. It is colourful and crowded, and transport and rooms fill quickly. The date follows the Nepali calendar, so check it locally if you hope to coincide with the festival, or avoid it if you prefer a calmer visit.
Planning the trip
Ridi is a separate outing from Tansen. The road drops down into the river valley, which is noticeably warmer than the hills, so take sun protection and plenty of water. Ask locally about transport, road conditions and how long to allow, especially in or just after the monsoon.
The river is fast and powerful, so do not swim, even where pilgrims bathe at the edge. Dress modestly and follow local lead around the temple. Rani Mahal is also on the Kali Gandaki, but it is a different trip; our guides to Rani Mahal and the Kali Gandaki explain more. After a hot day in the valley, the cooler evenings back in the hills at Bulbul come as a relief.