The story behind the palace
Khadga Shumsher was a powerful member of the Rana family who, after falling out with the ruling circle in Kathmandu, spent years in Palpa as its governor. When his wife died, he built this palace beside the river in her memory, in the late nineteenth century. The name simply means the queen's palace.
What stays with most visitors is the contrast: a pale, European-influenced building set against the steep green walls of the river gorge, far from any town. It is easy to see why the comparison with Agra's monument to lost love caught on.
Planning the day
Treat Rani Mahal as a separate outing rather than something to add on to a morning in Tansen. The journey involves rural road and, traditionally, a walk down to the river and back up again. Take the climb out seriously, especially in the heat of the afternoon.
Road access has changed over the years and can be affected by rain, so ask locally about the current route and transport before you go. Start early, carry plenty of water and something to eat, and wear shoes with good grip for the descent. The monsoon months are the hardest time to make the trip.
At the palace and the river
Parts of the building have weathered over the years, so check its current state and what you can enter before you set your heart on it. Stay off fragile walls and balconies, however good the photograph might be.
The Kali Gandaki is fast, cold and sacred, so admire it from the bank and do not swim. You can read more about the river in our guide to the Kali Gandaki. After a long day in the gorge, a home-cooked dinner and an early night at Bulbul are a fine way to finish; let the hosts know your plans so they can time the meal.