From the mountains to the plains
The river begins in the high, dry country of Mustang and flows south between the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain ranges, through a valley often described as one of the deepest gorges in the world.
Further south it loops through the forested hills of western Nepal, including Palpa. It later joins the Trishuli to form the Narayani, which flows across the plains past Chitwan and on into India, where it eventually meets the Ganges.
A sacred river
For Hindus, the Kali Gandaki is a holy river. Its upper reaches are known for shaligram, black fossil stones containing ammonites, which are revered as a form of Vishnu. Along its banks you will find temples, bathing places and cremation grounds.
If you come across a ritual or a cremation by the river, keep a respectful distance and ask before taking any photographs.
Seeing the river near Tansen
Two places in Palpa bring you close to the water. Ridi Bazaar, where the Ridi Khola meets the Kali Gandaki, is an old pilgrimage town with riverside temples; see our guide to Ridi Bazaar. Rani Mahal, a palace on the riverbank often compared to the Taj Mahal, is covered in our Rani Mahal guide.
The river changes with the seasons. In the monsoon it runs high, fast and brown with silt; in the dry months it is lower and clearer. Its currents are strong at any time of year, so admire it from the bank rather than swimming.
Planning a trip
Roads down to the river are steep and winding, and can be slow or disrupted after heavy rain. Check conditions locally before setting out. If you are staying at Bulbul, ask the hosts how long to allow and plan a relaxed day with time to return before dark.