Why the lake matters

For many local people, Satyawati is first a place of devotion, linked with the goddess whose name it bears. Pilgrims come to pray, make offerings and, at certain festivals, gather in large numbers, with stalls and the feel of a country fair. At other times of year you may find it almost empty, with only birdsong and the odd local visitor.

English-language information is limited, which is part of the appeal. Go with curiosity and plan with local advice rather than expecting signs, cafes or facilities. If you hope to see a festival gathering, ask in Tansen which dates to aim for, as they follow the Nepali calendar and shift from year to year.

Getting there

Satyawati is a separate outing from Tansen, involving rural roads and most likely some walking uphill. Ask locally about transport, how far vehicles can go and the state of the road; conditions change with the seasons and can be difficult in the monsoon.

Start early, wear proper walking shoes and take water, snacks and a warm layer. A local companion who knows the way makes the day easier and more interesting, so ask in town or ask your hosts whether anyone can advise.

Visiting respectfully

Treat the lake as you would a temple. Do not swim, wash or throw anything into the water, and remove your shoes near the shrine if others do. Keep voices low, ask before photographing people at worship and carry all rubbish away with you. Our guide to responsible travel in rural Nepal has more ideas for leaving a light footprint.

If you want a gentler water view on a rest day, the farm pond at Bulbul, with its ducks and ducklings, is a short stroll from your room rather than a day's journey.