A palace with a long civic life
Before Nepal was unified, Palpa was one of the stronger hill kingdoms of the region, ruled by the Sen dynasty, and Tansen grew as its capital and a busy trading town. After Palpa became part of the Gorkha-led state in the early nineteenth century, Tansen stayed an important regional centre, and the palace became the base from which the district was governed.
During the Rana period, several of Palpa's governors were members of the ruling Rana family, and the palace was their residence and office. In later decades it housed government offices. Its size and formal lines stand apart from the carved brick Newar houses in the lanes around it, which makes the contrast between official Tansen and merchant Tansen easy to see in a single glance.
Damage in 2006 and restoration
During Nepal's armed conflict, the palace was badly damaged in an attack on the town in 2006. It was later restored, and the rebuilding is part of the recent history many local people will talk about if you show genuine interest.
Ask gently and listen more than you question. For some families in Tansen these events are living memory rather than history, and a respectful conversation will teach you more than any plaque.
Fitting it into a morning in town
The palace sits beside the central square, so it fits easily into a morning in the bazaar. Most visitors approach through its great gate, covered in our guide to Baggi Dhoka, then carry on into the lanes on our old bazaar walk.
Which parts of the complex are open, and how they are used, has changed over the years, so check locally rather than relying on older travel notes. Be discreet when photographing offices, police or security staff, and ask if you are unsure. Wear shoes with good grip, as the streets around the square are steep. Bulbul is on the Bartung–Tansen Road, so ask the hosts about the easiest way into town on the day you plan to go.