The story of its size
Dhoka simply means gate or door in Nepali. This one is said to have been built tall and wide enough for an elephant carrying a rider to pass through, a reminder that the governors who lived behind it travelled in some state.
Whether or not you picture elephants, the gate tells you something about how power wanted to be seen in a hill town. Ordinary houses in the surrounding lanes open through small, low doorways; the gate to the palace was meant to impress anyone who walked into the square.
Seeing it well
Stand back across the square to take in its proportions, then walk closer to see how it frames the palace beyond. The square is quieter in the early morning, which makes it easier to see the gate without crowds and traffic in front of it.
For photographs, a wide angle helps, and people walking through the opening give a sense of scale. Stay out of the way of motorbikes and pedestrians, and be discreet around any security staff or offices near the gate. Come back in the evening too, when the square is busier and the gate becomes a backdrop to the town's social life rather than a monument standing on its own.
Using it as a starting point
Everyone in Tansen knows Baggi Dhoka, which makes it an easy place to meet companions or a driver. From here, Sitalpati is a few steps away, and the history of the palace itself is covered in our Tansen Durbar guide.
If you are staying at Bulbul, ask the hosts how best to reach the square, then let the gate be the first page of your day in town rather than a quick photograph on the way somewhere else.